Sourcing

Fantasy Cut Inventor Bernd Munsteiner Dies at 81

SourcingJun 17, 2024

Fantasy Cut Inventor Bernd Munsteiner Dies at 81

Known to many as the “Picasso of gems" who modernized the gem cutting field, he is remembered by his family as going through life with open eyes.

Bernd Munsteiner
Bernd Munsteiner, the gem cutter renowned for developing the fantasy cut, died on June 6 surrounded by his family in Stipshausen, Germany.
Stipshausen, Germany—Bernd Munsteiner, the inventor of the fantasy cut, died on June 6 at age 81.

He was surrounded by his family in Stipshausen, Germany. 

Often credited as the artist who modernized gem cutting, Munsteiner’s non-conventional style focused on concave cuts made on the back of precious gemstones.

Today, his works are featured in dozens of museums across the world, and many reside in major global gem collections. 

Munsteiner was born on March 2, 1943, to a gem-cutting family, and he began working as an apprentice at age 14. He studied at the Pforzheim School of Design in Germany and won his first award for his craft at age 25.

Munsteiner set out to challenge traditional cutting methods, which were, in the 1960s, based on a strict set of specifications. He eventually developed the style he’s well-known for—the fantasy cut. 

It took time for his new methods to reach the level of popularity they have today, but Munsteiner continued his work.

He established Munsteiner Atelier in Stipshausen in 1973 and created many masterpieces over the course of his life, such as the “Dom Pedro Aquamarine,” which is considered the world’s largest cut aquamarine and likely Munsteiner’s most notable creation. 

Bernd Munsteiner Dom Pedro Aquamarine
Bernd Munsteiner’s “Dom Pedro Aquamarine” weighs more than 10,000 carats.

Made in 1993, it took 10 months to complete. The finished piece is 2 feet tall and weighs 10,363 carats. It resides in the National Gem Hall at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum, near the Hope Diamond.   

Another masterpiece, “Metamorphosis,” is a Brazilian rutilated quartz weighing 2,900,000 carats.

Bernd Munsteiner Metamorphosis
“Metamorphosis” was part of the private collection belonging to Michael Scott, the first president of Apple Computer, with whom Bernd had a unique relationship with for many years. It once resided in the company’s California headquarters.


Jewelry designer Susan Helmich first came across one of Munsteiner’s pieces in 1984 while at the Tucson gem shows. She flew to Germany to find the gem cutter and was able to locate his atelier. 

She introduced herself, purchased more pieces that day, and the two continued their friendship, with Helmich telling AGTA that Munsteiner was her “North Star … confidante, colleague and inspiring artist.”

Shelly Sergent, curator of the Somewhere in the Rainbow (SITR) collection, said Helmich introduced her to Munsteiner.

“There was an immediate connection to the stunning works of gem art they produced, both masterful and exemplary in every detail, which SITR stands for. The gemstone and jewelry relationship was a natural fit for us. But more importantly, being invited by Bernd into their home, gardens and sanctuary in Germany was like sharing time with gemstone royalty. An intimate experience that will never be forgotten and led to a deeper understanding of the richness and the passion of the Munsteiner legacy,” she said.

Munsteiner’s legacy will be carried on through his family.

In the later years of his career, he spent three years working with his son, Tom, who died a little over six months ago, creating agate windows for the family’s church in Germany.

The two are remembered by their family for their character, ethics, charm, love and passion.

Munsteiner agate church windows
The church windows created by Bernd and his son Tom are approximately 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide, made of agate cut into 1-inch squares and one-half inch triangles.


“Our hearts are broken at the loss of Bernd and Tom, and yet, the world is brighter, and we are proud to showcase these remarkable art pieces for generations to come to know. I will always be grateful for my time with this extraordinary man, who always had a smile and always shared his time freely,” Sergent said.

She added that her first and only gem carving, a rutilated quartz that she calls “a treasure for [her] life,” was produced working alongside Bernd and Tom Munsteiner.

Bernd Munsteiner is survived by his wife of nearly 60 years, Hanne; his daughter-in-law Jutta, who was married to Tom; and his grandson Philipp, all of whom will continue the family business as the fifth generation of Munsteiner cutters.

Munsteiner family
Bernd, Hanne, Jutta, and Tom

“Bernd loved and enjoyed his family the most. Getting up in the morning to start the day with his family and then going straight to his passion for gemstones,” said Jutta. 

“He was a very cheerful person and brought back something he found from every walk to inspire new gemstone designs. Going through life with open eyes was his motto.”

Philipp said Bernd “opened the door to the magical world of gemstones” for him and his father.

Munsteiner family
Bernd, Tom, Philipp, and Jutta


“He was the first to change the way gemstones were cut and I am very proud of him and am his biggest fan,” he added. 

“With a lot of patience and love, he taught me how to cut at an early age. Bernd looked after me during every phase of my childhood and is therefore my childhood hero. He left a mark in my heart and will remain in my memory forever. I am very grateful that I was able to spend so much time with him.” 

Munsteiner was pre-deceased by Tom, as well as his other son, Jörg, both of whom were accomplished gem cutters. 

Sergent added, “[The gem community] shares the sorrow of Bernd’s passing, but we more so celebrate the life he lived and the colorful and memorable gifts he shared with the whole world. Godspeed, Bernd Munsteiner, and thank you.” 


Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Leonard Zell
MajorsAug 26, 2024
Longtime Industry Sales Trainer Lenny Zell Dies at 97

Said to be the first to write a jewelry sales manual for the industry, Zell is remembered for his zest for life.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Polaris Dawn
WatchesAug 26, 2024
IWC Is Sending Its Watches to Space

The company outfitted the Polaris Dawn spaceflight crew with watches that will later be auctioned off to benefit St. Jude’s.

Abernethy Pearl in loose form
AuctionsAug 23, 2024
Abernethy Pearl Tops Estimates at Auction

A buyer paid more than $100,000 for the gemstone known as “Little Willie,” setting a new auction record for a Scottish freshwater pearl.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Natural Diamonds: A Great (but Often Untold) Geology Story

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA.

Gumuchian’s Spectrum Necklace
CollectionsAug 23, 2024
Piece of the Week: Gumuchian’s Colorful ‘Spectrum’ Necklace

Anita Gumuchian created the 18-karat yellow gold necklace using 189 carats of colored gemstones she spent the last 40 years collecting.

Weekly QuizAug 23, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Kaley Cuoco, Tom Pelphrey, Matilda Pelphrey, and the engagement ring
TrendsAug 22, 2024
Kaley Cuoco Has a Three-Stone Engagement Ring With a Twist

The three-stone ring was designed by Shahla Karimi Jewelry and represents Cuoco, her fiancé Tom Pelphrey, and their child.

Xarissa B Greenwich St Jewelers collection
CollectionsAug 22, 2024
Greenwich St. Jewelers Collabs with TikTok Jewelry Content Creator

The Manhattan jewelry store has partnered with Xarissa B. of Jewel Boxing on a necklace capsule collection.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Forging the Next Generation of Skilled Bench Jewelers at GIA

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Instagram Notes
TechnologyAug 21, 2024
Instagram’s Notes Feature Expands to Posts, Reels

Acting as temporary virtual Post-it notes, Notes are designed to help strengthen mutual connections, not reach new audiences.

Carol Woolton
TrendsAug 21, 2024
Carol Woolton To Release New Book

The jewelry historian discusses the history and cultural significance of jewelry throughout time and across the globe.

State Property diamond and jet black enamel earrings
TrendsAug 21, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Shimmy and Shake

From fringe and tassels to pieces that give the illusion they are in motion, jewelry with movement is trending.

Jan Yager
IndependentsAug 20, 2024
Mixed-Media Jewelry Artist Jan Yager Dies at 72

The designer and maker found community around her Philadelphia studio and creative inspiration on the sidewalks below it.

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsAug 20, 2024
Google Ads Payment Policy Change: What It Means For You

The change to accepted payment methods for Google Ads might seem like an irritation but actually is an opportunity, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Pat Henneberry
IndependentsAug 20, 2024
Pat Henneberry Releases Memoir

The industry consultant’s new book focuses on what she learned as an athlete recovering from a broken back.

Cut and rough colored gemstones
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2024
The Ethical Gem Fair Is Going to California

The fair will take place on the West Coast for the first time, hosted by Altana Fine Jewelry in Oakland, California.

Kathy Hillelson, new WJA Foundation board member
MajorsAug 20, 2024
Kathy Hillelson Joins Board of WJA Foundation

Hillelson is a second-generation diamantaire and CEO of Owl Financial Group.

 2025 Gem Awards logo
Events & AwardsAug 19, 2024
Nominations Are Open for the 2025 Gem Awards

Submissions in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Excellence will be accepted through this Friday, Aug. 23.

Abernethy Pearl in a shell
AuctionsAug 19, 2024
Scotland’s Famed Abernethy Pearl Is Up for Sale

Known as “Little Willie,” it’s the largest freshwater pearl found in recent history in Scotland and is notable for its shape and color.

Clements Jewelers employees
IndependentsAug 19, 2024
Kentucky Jeweler Closing After 89 Years

Clements Jewelers in Madisonville cited competition from larger retailers and online sellers as the driving factor.

Green Vault Museum jewelry display
CrimeAug 16, 2024
Jewels Stolen During Green Vault Heist Back on Display

Most of the 18th century royal jewelry taken from the Green Vault Museum in Dresden, Germany, in 2019 went back on display this week.

Louis Anthony Jewelers
IndependentsAug 16, 2024
Louis Anthony Jewelers Announces First Resort Store

The Pittsburgh jeweler has opened a store in the nearby Nemacolin resort.

Jonne Amaya Cat Claw Necklace
CollectionsAug 16, 2024
Piece of the Week: Jonne Amaya’s ‘Cat Claw’ Necklace

With a 40-carat cabochon emerald, this necklace is as powerful and elegant as a cat.

Ross and Stefanie Wesdorp
Events & AwardsAug 16, 2024
IJO Names Jewel-Craft as VIP Vendor of the Year

The Erlanger, Kentucky-based company was recognized for its reliability when it comes to repairs and fast turnaround times.

Greenland Ruby mine
SourcingAug 15, 2024
Greenland Ruby Is Up For Sale

Unable to pay its debts, the ruby and sapphire miner is looking to restructure and become a “competitive and attractive” company.

Paola De Luca presenting her Trendbook
TrendsAug 15, 2024
Paola De Luca to Debut Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro

The trend forecaster’s latest guide has intel on upcoming trends in the jewelry market.

Heather Ingraham
Events & AwardsAug 15, 2024
Heather Ingraham Awarded WJA Helene Fortunoff Scholarship

Ingraham said she’ll use the scholarship funds to attend the Women’s Leadership Program at the Yale School of Management.

Moijey Fine Jewelry & Diamonds students
IndependentsAug 15, 2024
DC Jeweler Schools Students About Jewelry Via Summer Program

Moijey Fine Jewelry & Diamonds held a three-week “Mine to Finger 3D Jewelry Program.”

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy